
ยทS5 E22
Should You Visit Sepilok? Inside Borneo's Controversial Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre
Episode Transcript
Hello and welcome to this episode of Tripology.
It's the only backpacking show where the hosts are on the road talking travel.
I'm Alan and I'm here with the ever windswept Adam.
Thanks ever so much for joining us for another week, guys.
We've got another fantastic show for you.
This week.
We're going to hear about Alan's awful time.
He's haven't been having typhoons over in the Philippines.
And then we're going to hear about an amazing trip he had in Borneo, potentially seeing some big what colour are they, bloody orange apes.
And then we're going to have tales of a trip, of course, where we hear from one of you guys and in the Patreon section, the Lost and found.
I'm going to tell you why my landlord's been such a knob.
There you go.
So if you're interested in hearing about a Nobby landlord, there's a link in the description to our Patreon.
But of course, typhoons and orange apes both interesting stories, and never the twain shall meet.
First one happened, then the other.
Keenaid listeners will remember that you last left me.
I was I'd escaped Malapascua, a typhoon was looming, and I was in a little apartment in Cebu preparing for the oncoming storm.
It was, yeah, difficult time because I felt like I had a lot of information about your situation, Alan, but there wasn't really anything I could do about it.
I was just receiving text messages going Oh my God, mate, it's absolutely horrific outside.
I'm in an apartment block and I think I might be the only one, yeah.
Because we had a meeting that night, so we were incommunicado quite frequently, back and forth.
And my texts, I think to you got a little bit more frantic as the night went on.
At first I took the typhoon a very LAX approach.
I basically people were panicking going, oh, you need to prepare, get food, get all this stuff.
I thought, sounds like quite a windy Gale.
I'll just stay inside.
I'll just basically just be here and ride out the whole thing.
I did the meeting at 3I did the meeting at 3:00.
AMI woke up.
I was here.
It sounded horrendous outside, to the point where I was like, I've never really heard anything like this.
I was in an apartment near a construction site and I heard like metal pipes and girders and things collapsing all around.
It started to feel a little bit dangerous.
Yeah, yeah.
No, I can.
I can imagine.
I mean, you did tell me that you'd received an A text message, I think it was from the government saying that if you are in a coastal area, I mean, I would imagine that's the reason why you're receiving the text message.
You should get the hell out of there.
So it's a shame you took it as a just AI.
Don't know a medium level warning but I was a bit worried for you mate.
I've got to be honest, I've been in a typhoon myself in Taiwan, where I was cycling around my on my bicycle and I didn't really know what to expect going in.
You're not, you're not too far wrong with a lot of wind.
That's kind of what it felt.
That was my experience.
Yeah, I mean, I wish it was a text message from the government.
What it was was one of those alerts.
And they flashed up every now and again.
And they were entirely in Tagalog.
They're entirely in the Filipino language.
So in order to decipher what the alert said, I had to take a screenshot of my phone with the alert on it, right then go into photos, copy the text and then copy that into Google Translate.
And eventually I'd get the answer.
It was like, oh, coastal areas are advised to evacuate and these are the evacuation areas.
And then I'd Google where in Cebu is coastal area And Google would be like all of Cebu is a coastal area as Cebu is a city in proximity to the sea.
And I'd be like, OK, within the coastal area of Cebu, where is there a risk of chronic flooding?
And it was like, everywhere in Cebu has a risk of chronic flooding as you're in a city that's very proximous to the sea.
So I texted the owner of my apartment of the Airbnb and
said, mate, it's 3said, mate, it's 3:00 AM here, should I be in this apartment?
No reply.
I Googled a lot of stuff and essentially there were people evacuating all around me.
Just turns out there's people in much more brittle or rudimentary built structures.
The winds picked up.
It got very, very horrible.
There was all these horrible sounds and then power goes out, cell service goes out, No Internet, no data, no mobile phone reception.
Oh shit, it's about 45 AM.
Was it, were you, were you genuinely scared at any point?
Yeah.
I'd say I was genuinely scared.
I'd say I had a creeping fear because I don't really know what to expect.
It's, they say, in a typhoon.
Stay away from the windows.
Mile one side of the apartment was a window.
Oh, really?
So to stay away from that, I'd have had to shrink into a corner and cover myself in cellophane.
I don't know what to do.
Floor to ceiling window.
It's fantastic.
I don't what I've done.
I so you didn't really know with any any forewarning that you shouldn't have been there.
You could have only been reactive based on the information that you had available to you, I suppose.
Yeah, I was reacting with, but slightly too slowly.
And then?
Certainly more than your landlord.
Yeah, but then I was getting texting you back.
Who's this?
Presumably I was still getting those same alerts on my phone, right?
But they were now just falling on dead ears, essentially.
So what I did, at some point I just resigned to try and sleep.
I put a pillow over my head in concessions with my window explodes.
Most of the glass would land into the pillow.
Oh God.
And outside there was just howling wind.
The last alert I received said like risk of terrible flooding, make sure you don't have anything plugged into the walls because there might be electrical surges and things like that.
I just tried to get some sleep successfully.
I got a couple of hours and that was when the real party started.
Because when I woke up, still no power.
I realized that probably I should have stockpiled some food because the whole of Cebu is just completely locked down.
I have a flight in about 10 hours and the streets are just completely flooded.
I mean, the flooding was exceptional.
There was no way to get anywhere.
I thought the food situation may have played into your hands because you intermittent fast.
Don't.
You.
Yeah, I was getting terribly fit whilst I was waiting for that typhoon to pass.
Yeah, God.
Well, I mean, what's the what's the take away from this then?
Do you think you just got lucky?
There weren't any takeaways, there weren't any restaurants, any takeaways, and nothing was open.
That was what was so hard about it.
Sorry, I thought I made that more clear.
So the yeah, the Well, hang on.
What about the flight then?
That wasn't cancelled because of the severe weather warning, right?
So the flights for the whole day were cancelled.
Oh right, my flight was just late enough that it was considered the next day and therefore wasn't cancelled.
Oh, OK.
It was the the very first flight that wasn't automatically cancelled on the day of the typhoon.
Oh yeah.
What I basically did was pack all my bags 8 hours early, wade to the bottom of my Rd.
went to the one establishment that was open and under a meter of water.
It was the shell garage.
Because if you need to supply gas in an emergency.
Oh, what?
Do you say wait?
Did you mean like you're walking through knee high water?
Yeah, I mean, there were sections that were a little bit less than knee high and sections a little bit more.
So it was kind of like a game of Frogger.
I was just going through different sections of varying water depths.
Oh my God, that's awful.
How terrible.
You know, so I'd like put my swimming cap on, go across one bit, take it off, put Wellington's on, paddle through another and then some of that I was just skim boarding across like pretty cool.
Got to the Shell garage.
They had a little bit of Wi-Fi which I used to contact a driver on a taxi app A.
Little bit of WI.
Fi yeah, just a small amount.
Right, OK, but they allocated.
To you because they had a generator.
Oh, right.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Still no takeaways.
I got a taxi using the Wi-Fi, drove to the airport 8 hours early and just waited out the rest of the situation.
My God was, I know they weren't, I guess because I've read a few news articles and that sort of stuff.
But were the people in Cebu hit particularly hard?
I mean, I assume there was a lot of loss in terms of housing and local businesses and stuff.
It was just devastation.
Yeah, and, and people passed away.
It's like it was really hectic typhoon man.
And there's a lot of corruption stuff that goes on that means that the infrastructure in the city is just not equipped to deal with it properly.
And there's flooding every time and there's people in such rudimentary housing that every year it gets destroyed when there's typhoons and every year they evacuate and every year they start again.
It's really a horrendous situation.
I was very lucky just to be able to to flee.
I mean, you realize in situations like that how lucky you are just to be able to get to an airport and leave.
And, and my heart goes out to all the people in Cebu.
It really does because what, what an awful thing to to have happen to you.
And the Filipino people are so great.
I've seen videos on social media of them like diving off their roofs into the flooded streets and stuff.
Sounds dangerous, but I mean, you got to keep a, a light hearted attitude when you're experiencing such terrible loss.
But Long story short mate, I was able to escape.
I was able to get to the airport.
My flight was the first flight from Air Asia that went that day and I escaped to Borneo.
Amazing.
Well, I can't wait to hear more about it.
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So there we are.
I've escaped the typhoon, Typhoon Tino in Cebu and I've landed in Kota Kinabalu in Borneo.
What a wonderful place to be it.
Is amazing.
It's somewhere I've been, not somewhere I remember that much.
Although refresh my memory, is there a kind of a harbour with a fish market, local market, few restaurants and and that sort of stuff, diving shops and things?
There certainly is mate, and I took to forcing other travelers in the hostel in Kotaku Nabalu I I walked into the hostel and I saw a girl eating a McDonald's and I thought, rest assured, in the next 48 hours I will take you to that fish market and you really fish with me.
OK, well.
And that lived out.
That did happen.
Oh.
Really, I know that this isn't the way that this this part of the show is going to go, but I am quite interested in Fish hearing how you how you navigated that situation with with a backpacker who who had chosen to eat anything other than the local cuisine in the form of some mass produced fast food.
How do you approach that without sounding judgmental?
You would have.
Checked out of the hostel and gone and gone somewhere else but I I didn't say anything.
Sorry, sorry, is this sorry?
Is this a backpackers hostel?
Because it because you look like you're eating at McDonald's.
Yeah, no.
Possibly be a backpacker who's interested in mindful travel and the experience of local culture.
I said there's fries cooked in sugar to make people more addicted to that.
She said yes, No, I I simply looked at her out of one corner of my eye in a manner that said I'm going to save you.
Oh.
OK.
Tomorrow I'm going to take you to some see some great cuisine.
I said nothing and I didn't interact with her 24 hours later.
Then we bumped into each other and I said I'd like you to come for dinner with me because there are better things out there than what you consumed last night.
And is this, are you going to tell us sort of what you had on in the fish market or I think I've eaten in that fish market?
Just a fish, just a fresh fish, just.
I had a fish with her.
Yeah.
I said to the waiter, what's your best fish?
And he said, oh, it's actually McDonald's.
Do this like nasty Lamac with a fish on the side.
That's one of the best things we do.
But if you're interested in Kotikinabalu, second best fish, I've got this lime caught snapper and I said I'll have to do.
Nothing says Borneo like a fucking happy Meal.
Yeah, exactly.
So that's wicked, mate.
But you've liked the food and so far in in Borneo, have you?
Well.
That was my first impression of Borneo was, Oh my God, the food here is so much more to my palate than the food in the Philippines.
I really love Malaysian food.
I was having laxas, I was having fishes, I was having a whale of a tide.
But my primary reason for being in Borneo was, of course, seeing the most orange of the great apes, an animal that has captured my heart as one of the most charismatic megafauna existing on the earth.
I am, of course, Speaking of the orangutan.
So.
How good, How good?
Very shortly after arriving in Kota Kinabalu, I set my sights on going have on heading east to Sepilog to Sandican to Kinabatangan, a river where you can see a plethora of animals, orangutans included.
So I set out very early on my journey on the bus.
Most people fly.
I took the bus because Greta Thunberg has persuaded me that it is wrong to fly.
Yeah, as long as you're in a bus that's driving past miles and miles and miles as far as the eye can see of palm oil plantations.
I did a journey where I'm paying such respect to ginger apes.
I think it was, only I can't actually say that.
Hold on.
I've taken that same.
Bus Alan and a journey where I'm paying such respect to the ginger community.
I think it is only fair that I he did her word and took a bus instead.
So I was on the bus and I just, you know me, What happens to me when I'm riding a bus, Adam?
You often fall asleep.
Yeah, you got it.
Vehicular somnambulism is what we call it.
I get very soporific, very tired.
Moi can sado on the old bus.
Can imagine it now, headphones in I.
Was riding and I fell asleep.
Tape on no tape.
No, no mouth tape.
I was just fast asleep listening to a Gray Thornberg podcast going fast down the motorway on the bus.
Fell asleep, woke up, mate.
And you know what happens when you wake up from asleep?
Your eyes are a bit tired, you're feeling a bit tired.
And I just adjusted my contact lens, thought nothing of it.
I've done that a million times before.
OK.
I checked into my hostel in Sepilac.
I noticed in the corner of my eye a little bit of pain of some kind, Like, oh, that feels a little unusual.
Perhaps my contact lens is irritated.
I'll go to sleep, take my contact lenses out, give my eyes a rest, wake up in the morning.
I'll go to the orangutan sanctuary to have a preliminary look at some orphan orangutans before I see the wild ones.
I'll visit the Bornean, some bears.
I'm going to have a great time.
Let's get a good night's sleep.
OK, wonderful woke.
Up the following day.
Yeah, with one of the largest eyes I've ever had in my life.
The whole lower lid had swelled up like a squash ball.
Oh dear, that's big.
I had inflammation like puffy eye going down my face right?
An itch that I've scarcely experienced before.
Did you immediately know what it was?
I knew it was something wrong with my eye, if that's what you mean.
I suspected it was some sort of ocular issue.
Yeah, yeah.
Oh, dear.
That's a big shame.
Yeah, that's a big shame.
I wouldn't say you're prone to things like that, especially not when you travel.
You've got a pretty hard stomach, sturdy, and you don't get ill that often.
Yeah.
I've been a bit more prone recently.
I think is known as the antibiotic cascade.
I think that I've had some infections in the Philippines due to my lifestyle in jiu jitsu.
Oh yeah, and just the jiu jitsu, not my lifestyle.
The lifestyle of jiu jitsu is what I mean.
OK, Jesus, why is the audience persecuting?
Me, yeah, because the Lord knows you weren't doing, you weren't doing anything else, were you?
Than jiu jitsu.
I was basically doing jiu jitsu.
I was like a jiu jitsu non over there and indeed now quite non like.
So anyway, I took some antibiotics because of jiu jitsu in the Philippines and now I'm getting a lot of these sort of low grade infections because my body's forgotten how to fight and my eye was a mess.
I went about the day in Seppalog anyway, but now it's a little bit less sexy because I'm wearing big old glasses and I'm having just to navigate.
You don't want to give orangutans the stink eye, mate.
I know.
I mean, that's like that's orangutan one O 1.
If they think you're giving them a stink eye, they'll be on you mate.
Well.
All my eyes were pretty bad at this point because of the infection.
So stink eye was everyone was getting a bit of stink eye.
I went to Sepulogue and it's just it's a bit annoying when you've got glasses on because I almost feel like I'm not really looking at the animals.
Like I'm looking through sort of 1/4 inch thick shaped pane of glass.
But as if, as if you were looking at the wildlife but they were inside a cage and there was just a perspex.
Like a zoo, almost.
Well ironically at my local zoo back in Manchester the the the glass was slightly less thick than my glasses prescription.
I mean the point where you have to look at an animal through glasses.
I always say best just to watch on the TV.
I am.
I'm interested in knowing what your experience of SEPI lock was like because I think you're probably slightly more what's the word I'm looking for?
Would you scrutinize A conservation sort of environmental thing like that orphanage?
I think he calls itself an orphanage, doesn't it?
Rehabilitation centre that's.
I gave him a good bit of scrutinization, mate.
Yeah.
And let me give you my review of Seppalog and the Sun Bear Centre.
Of course, all jokes aside, all glasses aside, all eye infection bothering me aside, I did.
I mean, it's something I've been G myself up for my my whole life to see orangutans and I thought Sepilog was definitely worth a visit.
That's funny.
Yeah.
So I mean, did you do much research into the sort of work that they do for the orangutans?
Because from my memory it's, it backs onto the jungle and it is open.
So it's basically, for anyone who doesn't know Sepa lock is it must be some sort of organization, foundation, whatever, an orangutan orphanage and care centre, let's say.
And there are a number of, I don't know what you call it, climbing frames, apparatus, platforms, all that sort of stuff.
Some walkways through the jungle and the orangutans are just sort of walking around and stuff.
But they, they can choose to leave.
It's just that they're often fed.
That one of the platforms, yeah, so.
I think, I think that is a misleading concept, the idea of them being able to choose to leave.
But I, this is what I think of Cephalog and the Bunny and Sun Bear Centre is that they are release focused centres that take animals that otherwise wouldn't have had a chance at a very good life and help them in, in new rule ways when they're infants and then give them the opportunity to live as close to a natural life as possible.
Having been raised fundamentally by humans.
The idea that they have the choice to leave because the centre is adjacent to the jungle, I mean, an animal very scarcely would leave if it's been born in those conditions and knows it has access to food.
So.
Kind of incentivized to stay.
There are some animals there which were born in the centre and they live in the area of the centre.
They're fed everyday, they're incentivized to stay in that way and they'll never really leave, but they are procreating.
And I saw one orangutan who was born in the centre had that life, but it's since had a child and the child may well grow up and leave the centre.
As you know, they often do in adolescents leave the company of their mothers.
So they are, you know, helping healthy orangutans to procreate and be wild.
So I think from that sense is a very ethical endeavour.
The Bourne Sun Bear Centre, a different model really in the sense that those bears are pet trade captive animals who are being given a second chance, healed up.
They get over that, all their issues and any health issues they have, any psychological issues they have, and then the ones that are equipped to do so, they'll dart them, take them way out into the jungle and then release them, which is of course, that's the best thing you can do for an animal to give it a second chance of being wild.
Yeah, You know, regarding you seeing those orangutans, I told you in great detail what it was like emotionally for me to see them.
I don't suppose you you didn't vomit or you didn't cry or anything along those lines, did you?
What was what was your experience like?
I'll say that is the one qualm about Sepilog and I almost wish it wasn't my first experience seeing an orangutan because I do think that it's difficult to feel the feeling I expected to see when seeing an orangutan in the wild.
When you're seeing it in the context of a place where you're guaranteed to see orangutan and a place where fundamentally like there's there's a an orphanage, infant sort of nursery where they're there, they're being fed, you can see them.
And then there's like a feeding platform where you're really in quite close proximity and it feels very zoo like, despite the fact that you're in a jungle context.
So I think it was hard to have that feeling of awe that I expected and hoped to get when seeing an orangutan for the first time.
But it was very, it was very beautiful to see that that, you know, there was such a dedicated staff and humans making such an effort to to keep those orangutans safe and do such good conservation.
So it's worth talking about Sepalog and the Bonnet and Some Better Center, just because I think they are worthwhile pursuits.
I don't remember having a feeling of, of thinking that it was kind of like a, a zoo or just sort of built for tourists.
I mean, I, I was very lucky when I went to kind of Batangan because I saw, did see a mother orangutan up in a tree with her baby as well, albeit from quite a far distance away.
And I think the sun was setting as well, but it was still magical.
You could sort of see their silhouettes in the tree and it was lovely.
And then, of course, we all know that that other experience I had very, very fortunate in the Dunham Valley seeing, seeing an orangutan very, you know, very close, almost too close.
Yeah.
So, you know, I just sort of wonder how you felt about Sepa Lock and and the the centre itself, because I think overall you don't really get that feeling that it's just sort of built for.
Tourists.
No, it's a functional rehabilitation centre and I, you know, I champion that sort of experience.
You know, we talk about travellers who go and work in unethical elephant sanctuaries and stuff like that all the time.
So when somewhere does something right and caters to tourists who want to see something like an orangutan and also does good ethical animal conservation, I do think it's worth highlighting.
On the next episode of Tripology, I'm going to talk about the river cruise where I finally, or did I get the opportunity to see a real life wild orangutan.
We'll do all that next week because to now we've got to hear another travellers greatest travel story.
There's a link in the description if you want to submit one.
Tales of the trip.
Let's hear what another travellers greatest travel story was right now.
Hello Diggy here, long time listener, first time caller.
My tail starts off as two of my best friends and I crossed the border from Kazakhstan via short jaunt through Russia and to Mongolia and a Fiat Panda called Heather.
While rolling through the desert that night, an almighty bang brought us to an abrupt halt.
A full roadside inspection the next morning revealed that, well, the engine fell out.
Not to be deterred by this minor set, back on our cross Continental road trip, we pushed on.
Out came the toe rope from the back of the car, up went our thumbs at the side of the road and so began the great Mongolian toll.
We barely waited 5 minutes for our first tour and once hooked up 8 feet from the back of the nice man's Mitsubishi Daleka, he put pedal through the metal and had us cruising over dirt roads at 60 miles an hour.
Unfortunately, after only an hour or two and three stops to refill his radiator, we had to concede that the mighty Daleka just wasn't up to the job and he would have to leave us behind.
Feeling so remorseful that he couldn't deliver on taking us as far as he had promised, he gave up his fresh ham and egg sandwiches made by his wife that morning by means of apology and went on his way.
Several more tours carried us through that day before we pitched up for the night and in the morning, feeling encouraged by how far we'd already come, we packed up our tent, speculating on the mighty towing truck which was no doubt just about to swing around the corner and carry us all the way to our destination.
Well, the next tool was indeed a good one.
The rumble of the V8 could be heard well before the Land Cruiser came into view.
Once they had stopped and threw mostly hand signals, figured out our plan.
The driver agreed and gestured.
OK, one of you in my car, the other two in your car.
So I obliged and jumped into the comfort, AC and leather seats of the Land Cruiser.
And the car was 3 generations, the father driving, his father beside him and his two adult sons squeeze next to me in the back.
Not long after we started off, the granddad pulled out a bottle of vodka, ordered a large cup and handed it to me.
Bearing in mind this is about 9.
AMI took a sip and thanked him, offered the cup to share which was met with an Oh no that's for you to enjoy hand gesture.
Thankfully the driver didn't imbibe, but the rest of us enjoyed glass after glass of top notch Mongolian hooch through the morning.
Feeling like I should check on my comrades, I peeked over my shoulder and was met with concerned faces and some white knuckling of the steering wheel.
I would later find out we'd been averaging about 80 miles an hour and soon as our car wasn't running it had essentially no brakes.
Unaware of this situation though, and having such a wonderful time in good company, good comfort and plenty of vodka, I didn't worry too much.
Another few tours the next day.
We eventually arrived in Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia, more than 1500 kilometres since we last moved under our own power.
That adventure did continue, but that's certainly our tale.
Keep up the good work boys.
Cheers.
Dude, one of my favorite tales of a trip of all time.
I mean what a cool story.
What anime like so beautifully told.
Sounded like an audio book that I wanted to listen to forever.
And yeah, just this tale of resilience, of hopefulness, of human kindness, of sojourning from one place to another off the back of other people's generosity.
Gorgeous.
You're effortlessly leading us into a cliffhanger that I really hope we hear the end to.
What an amazing story.
I, I don't know what I would have been like in that situation.
I hope Doogie's far more handy than I am.
But the engine falling out of your car, albeit a Fiat pander, I think, he said.
Not sort of situation.
I want to be in the middle of nowhere with with no engine and only.
Your only hope is to stick out a thumb and pray that it's someone that you want to be spending some time with.
You'd have been better than me in that situation, I think, because I think your brain would have gone like doogies to like, oh, this is fucked.
Like we need help.
Like let's hitchhike, let's get some people to help us.
I'd have been like on the side of the road trying to download an e-book about engine repair.
You're probably right, but also maybe.
I know so littered about cars I wouldn't have realised that the engine falling out is so big of a problem that you probably should just hit Jack.
It's OK guys, I've seen the Flintstones.
We just poke our feet through where the engine used to be and run.
That's amazing.
So Kazakhstan, Little Nip up into Russia, then Mongolia.
I mean, they're places that we've not been to, Alan.
They're places we want to go.
Do we?
Is hitchhiking the way?
Is that what Doogie's saying?
If we want to meet locals and get drunk while they're driving, is that sort of sounds like it could be one of the better ways to experience?
It sounds like the adventure that me and you ought to go on.
So thank you very much, Doogie, for sending that in and inspiring us.
I think not more needs to be said about that tale.
I think it's stood alone as a beautiful and inspirational travel story.
If you listening to this, have a travel story just like it.
There's a little link in the description.
You can head there and submit your own tale of a trip.
It could be anything.
Don't worry about it too much.
If you think, oh it's not as good as doogies, my story's a bit boring.
Will be the judge of that.
If it's not.
If it's boring, we just won't play it and no one has to know.
Just send it in.
Anyway, We might like listening to it, you know what I mean?
It's not a big deal, just send one in.
Much love, thanks.
Next week I'm going to tell you about the time I saw a wild orangutan, or did I?
And got that special feeling deep inside like, Oh my God, there's an animal that I've been looking for forever, so long.
There's going to be some brilliant stories next Tuesday.
Make sure you stick around for them.
Now, though, we're going to go to the Lost and Found section in Patreon.
Where I'm going to tell you all about my Nobby landlord.
Thanks ever so much for tuning in, guys.
There's a link in the description if you want to join us over in the Lost and found section.
We'll see you there.
See you there.
Bye.