Episode Transcript
Fellow Ridiculous Historians, We're gonna say it.
We hope this doesn't ruffle too many feathers.
We are big fans of spam, boy.
Speaker 2Are we ever?
Speaker 3Just I don't know, man, I don't love it to eat necessarily, but I love the concept of it.
And I did recently have a spam musubi, which is like a little Hawaiian kind of spam sushi role situation.
Speaker 1Yeah, spam musubi is crazy good.
And if you've ever spent time in Hawaii, or maybe in Korea or even Japan, you know that spam is a global phenomenon.
Speaker 2It is darn air.
Speaker 1Ubiquitous in Hawaii, and yeah, it's tough for everyone.
It is a processed meat, and learning about how that meat is processed may turn you off of the stuff.
But luckily, in today's classic episode, we are joined with our legendary dear friend of our show, dear friend at our personal lives, the co host and co creator of Savor, Annie Reese.
She's gonna help us understand just how ridiculous the origin of spam actually is.
Speaker 3It is, indeed, so let's roll that beautiful spam footage.
Speaker 1Ridiculous History is a production of iHeartRadio.
Hello everyone, ridiculous historians, thank you for tuning in.
This is the show where we look at some of the strangest, weirdest, most bizarre, and yes, ridiculous people, places, things, and events throughout the span of human civilization.
Speaker 3Animals, vegetables, minerals today.
I'm not sure which category this topic falls under, but it's it's a thing, it's historically driven.
Speaker 2And it's a fun thing.
Speaker 3It is a fun thing.
You know what just happened?
I want to point out by the way, Ben.
Speaker 2What's that?
Speaker 3Noel, our super producer Casey Pegrin said, Okay, start talking, go right, go.
He literally cracked the whip at us.
I will because you you would.
Speaker 1You had thrown both Casey and I under the bus before the before the show started.
Yeah, by by saying that you are more grateful than anyone for a particularly surprising, amazing thing we have happening in this episode.
Speaker 3That's just me over compensating.
You notice about me, Ben?
Speaker 2You know this about me?
Speaker 3Do you want how about this?
Let's let's drop the drop the goods.
What do we have today?
That's so right, that's correct.
Speaker 1Yeah, So we have today an amazing story about an iconic food product that everyone in the US is aware of, and I assume many people throughout the world are aware of this.
It is called spam.
But you and I are not exploring this story alone today.
Thank god we called in an expert.
Folks, would like to introduce you to our friend and today's co host, Annie Reese.
Speaker 4Hi, everybody, thanks so much for having me.
Guys, did you know that you were a spam expert?
Speaker 3Annie?
Speaker 2Spam spurt?
You know, I am so disgusting.
That does sound really gross.
Yeah, it didn't work out.
Speaker 3It's like what happens when you opened the can and a little bit of the juice you.
Speaker 2Oh, I did not need that mental image.
Speaker 3You didn't know it, but she did.
Speaker 2Annie.
Speaker 3Okay, expert maybe not.
I don't know.
We're all kind of like armchair experts on a lot of things.
We have a good time researching.
I don't know how you would get the qualification of spam expert, but I'm going to refer to you as our spam spirit guide today.
How about that?
Speaker 1Oh yeah, I like about spam consultant.
Speaker 2I'm going to go it sounds like an email.
I come in and you're getting a lot.
Speaker 3Of spam sorted out, like make all the filters on your emails.
Speaker 1I feel like I'm shopping at a grocery store and I'm going, oh wait, there's so many different things, and then you appear and you explain it in a step by step basis, And I just want you to know that I am preemptively very appreciative of that.
Speaker 2I feel like i'd be good at that.
I'm not sure, but.
Speaker 3Are very efficient.
Speaker 1And you are a co host of our food podcast, Savor, Food Lifestyle Travel.
Could you tell us a little bit about Saver.
Speaker 4Yeah.
Savor is a show where we explore the science history culture of food and drinks and why we like what we like and how you can get more of that.
Speaker 2It used to be called food Stuff.
Speaker 4We recently rebranded, but we did a whole episode on spam back when it was old school food stuff.
And I have a confession to make that Noel and I were talking about briefly before this.
Speaker 2Anyone who knows anything.
Speaker 4About Apple podcast reviews, you don't read them unless you're a masochist.
Speaker 3Oh yeah, right, which I am.
Speaker 4Well, you were a very result in me, but once I'm a friend of mine left a review and was like you've got to go find it, you've got to read it, And I said, do you know what you're asking me to do?
But eventually I got over it and delved into the nightmare.
Speaker 3War the shark pity that is podcast reviews.
Speaker 2I like the reviews I read it.
Speaker 4Oh, that might say something about you, but it might say something about me as well.
But one of the number one recurring negative reviews was that I have never tried any of the foods we're talking about.
And when we recorded spam, I had not tried it.
Speaker 3Yeah, you're very open about it on the show, though, Yeah, it seems like a very misplaced complaint.
You know, you're talking to it, you're owning up to it.
You honestly, maybe it's better that you haven't tasted the stuff.
It makes you more objective about it.
Speaker 2Have you still tried it?
I tried it.
Speaker 4Afterwards, I went and got spam subi and that was it was.
Speaker 2Lovely spam what musubi?
Speaker 4Yeah, it's a very popular you can find it inconvenience stores in Hawaii, that's how popular it is.
And it kind of to me looks like nigiri, like sushi, but it's it's spam.
Speaker 1Oh, yes, Okay, yeah, I'm familiar with that.
And what we know nowadays is that in most grocery stores that carry spam, you won't just see the iconic, regular garden variety spam.
You'll see stuff like turkey spam, spam with bacon, spam light.
And because this is so recognizable, we have to ask ourselves, how how did this thing which people love or hate, how did it become so ubiquitous in the world today?
How how come everybody, vegetarians vegans included, know what you're talking about and you say spam.
Speaker 3Well, first of all, it's good branding right to say the spa sound is one of my favorites.
And then add va am and it's just a delight to say out loud, and it's it's it's meant to be an acronym, but the or of what its acronym actually might be is a little bit lost to history, or it's kind of a little murky, right.
Speaker 4Yeah, there are a couple of stories about where the name came from from the people who should know where it came from.
One is that it's like spiced ham, or maybe it stands for scientifically processed.
Speaker 2Animal matter animal matter sound not so delicious not quite meat animal matter.
Speaker 3And there's others too.
There's a shoulder of pork and ham and like you said, spiced ham.
And then if we want to really get into the weeds that's utterly not food related.
There's Stop Pornography and Abusive Marketing Act.
There's also the State Police Association of Massachusetts.
Best we forget.
Speaker 2I didn't realize that was in the running.
Speaker 3Schools of the Pacific Atmospheric Monitoring Society for the Publication of American Music Systems Personnel Activity Meeting.
That's from Yale in my personal favorite society for palm top advancement through meetings.
Speaker 2Oh through only through media.
Speaker 3That seems like a fascinating use of time.
But okay, so spam It dates back to nineteen thirty seven in a town called Austin, Minnesota aka Spamtown, USA.
Speaker 1And it was made by Hormel Foods.
They initially pitched it as a way to help busy homemakers serve quick and easy pork dishes without having to slave away for hours in front of it of it.
Speaker 3But in like an Edward Burnet's style stroke of genius, it also did a thing where it Hormel the guy had a slaughterhouse, and he had these byproduct parts that weren't very sellable, aka the pork shoulder.
We now kind of dig pork shoulder.
That's like a thing that it's like a delicacy, right or like people eat it at the Thanksgiving table or whatever.
Speaker 2Right, people are into it now, Yeah for barbecue, I think, right, yeah, yeah, yeah, exactly so.
Speaker 3But he had this surplus of pork shoulder.
It was not a popular cut, and so he wanted to figure out a way to make this, as you say, ben convenient product that could be marketed to homemakers who are all about canned food.
At the time it was all the rage.
Speaker 1And they haven't really fuxed with the ingredients too much.
Speaker 2You know.
Speaker 1It's strange because when you think of shelf stable, that shell stable being the term for stuff that can stay at room temperature without going bad.
I guess getting worse than it originally was.
When you think of that, usually think of a ton of chemicals with so many syllables in the name that it sounds like a spell from Harry Potter, right.
But in the case of spam, they have what six ingredients is just port slash, ham salt water, potato, starch, sugar, and of course sodium nitrate.
Speaker 2Of course for color.
Yes, that captivating pinkishu.
It's they describe it.
Speaker 1So spam didn't immediately become this worldwide since there were other things happening across the planet that eventually would lead to spam becoming like the king of canned meat.
And it goes into an angle that a lot of people might not be aware of.
It goes to tensions between the US and Japan during the nineteen thirties.
There's a guy, Donald M.
Shug at the University of Hawaii who published a paper on this, and he says that the US military began to view Hawaii's fishing fleet as a serious threat to national security.
So, you know, at this time, Hawaii is still not a US state, right, So when the Japanese government arranged for many of Hawaii's Japanese fishermen to attend fishing schools in Japan, there were concerns that these fishermen were actually being interrogated by Japanese navy officials.
Speaker 3Yeah, but to what end?
Ben to what end?
Speaker 1So this eventually, okay, we walked through this real quick.
So in nineteen forty three years after the invention of spam, suspicions about the loyalty of Japanese immigrants resulted in the implementation of a federal statute that stopped or banned fishing vessels of five tons or more from obtaining licenses unless the person who owned the vessel was a US citizen.
The next year, nineteen forty one, they passed a law prohibiting quote aliens from fishing with gil purs or these different kinds of nets within one mile of shore, because they wanted to preserve the fishery resources for Native Hawaiians and US citizens.
This ended careers of a lot of people in the fishing industry in Hawaii, and then that meant that without spam these other canned meats and sardines, the economy would have collapsed.
They had to find something to replace this massive fishing industry.
Speaker 3And let's not forget about Executive Order in ninety sixty six where Franklin Roosevelt basically banned Japanese Americans citizens who were occupying military ones had them put in internment camp.
So this whole anti Japanese sentiment was wide rife in the country, and weirdly enough, it trickled down to this canned meat product.
Speaker 1And of course these tensions, these discriminatory laws and economic practices were only ripples of a much larger event on the horizon, which is World War Two.
And when the war begins, spam also has a part to play.
Speaker 4Yeah, it does, because if you remember, spam was pretty new around the time that America was getting involved in World War Two, but it was a popular option for soldiers because getting fresh meat or fresh anything to Hawaii was difficult for American soldiers station there, so the US government was sending spam, or it might not have been exactly spam.
Speaker 3Wasn't it kind of like leftover meat parts that they had that they shipped to Hormel and then they made them my spam like stuff.
Speaker 4Yeah yeah, yeah, so Hormel's canning them.
But it probably wasn't exactly what spam is today or what we think of it today.
And it was cheap, non perishable, could withstand all sorts of weather conditions.
But soldiers weren't exactly happy with spam.
They were sometimes eating it three times a day, so I'm sure they were tired of it.
Some of them even wrote hate mail to Hormel.
Which the company kept in a quote scurrilous file, and some of my favorite dishes are quote meat loaf without basic training haam, that didn't pass its physical and the real reason war was hell.
Speaker 2That's great, it's fantastic.
Speaker 3It's pretty harsh.
Those are some sick burns.
Do you think that this would have been like branded as spam?
Would it have come in the tins, like with the logo on it and everything, because you kind of made a point on your episode of food Stuff back when it was called that that almost like the proper spam kind of got a bad rap because this was like almost like bootleg spam, but it was being manufactured in Hormel's canning facilities.
So I'm wondering if they like branded it differently or called it like Mr.
Spam or something, or I don't know, do you find anything about that in your research.
Speaker 4I didn't find much about that at all.
In fact, the fact that it wasn't spam was sort of a deep cut.
Speaker 3It was kind of lost on people.
Clearly they were writing those letters, those angry letters.
Oh and this also know it reminds me of the kind of people that write mean things about podcasts.
Speaker 1Well, it's also in the case of spam, there's an interesting linguistic thing that occurs because they're using it as one word to describe this umbrella of umbrella of processed meat.
Speaker 2So the image it just got weird for me.
Speaker 1But you know, it's similar to the way that instead of people saying search for something on the Internet, they say google it, or instead of make a copy xerox this.
Speaker 4Yeah.
Speaker 1Right, And it seems pretty certain in the history that only a few soldiers received genuine spam.
But because there had already been this can be product around since the late thirties, that's just what people called it.
So maybe spam got an unfair uh mark, a scurreless mark on its on its reputation.
Speaker 4I wonder if it's possible too that because spam was new and at the time, there was such a push to be like behind the boys, and you know, all American soldiers and America is doing great in the war.
Speaker 1Annie is Annie has throwing some great propaganda.
Yeah, she's got these tiny American flags.
She's gently twisting between her thumb and forefinger.
Speaker 2Shut off a firecracker.
I always come with crops, I always come with props.
Speaker 3Very true.
Speaker 4But I wonder if maybe they made a miscalculation and thought, oh, spam is supporting the soldiers and this will really get our name out there.
And it did, but not in the way they were hoping.
Speaker 3Oh man, this is like a like an attempt, like a ham fisted attempt at a pr kind of stun visited a test spam fisted attempt.
That's even better, and he took to the next level like you do.
Speaker 4I'm just curious if there was an element of that behind it, because I could see I could see the calculation there.
Speaker 1Because it is free advertising when you think about it.
That's a good point because these soldiers from the US are traveling around the world.
They're going to Europe, they're going to the Pacific, they're going to various different islands, and they're bringing spam along with them.
Speaker 4Yeah, and it's a government contract, so you're getting paid to do it.
I bet there was something like that going on, and the backlash from the soldiers generated one of my favorite quotes about spam, because there are a lot of excellent quotes about spam.
Hormale describes it as meat with a pause button, which I love.
Speaker 3I'm gonna need you to unpack that for us A little bit meat with a pause button, meaning like it never goes bad.
Or is that the implication?
Speaker 4Yeah, like you put it in that can.
It's like a time capsule.
It's just going to stay the same.
I got it pushing pause.
Another one of my favorite quotes comes from a nineteen forty five New Yorker piece, and it was all about as a profile on Jay Hormel, and in the article, the author wrote, I got the distinct impression that being responsible for spam might be too great a burden on any one.
Man.
Speaker 2I love that idea of being cursed by the success of spam.
Yeah.
Speaker 1So is it that the soldiers genuinely didn't like the taste or is it?
Do you think it's really more because as you said, they were eating it so often.
Speaker 4I think it was a couple of things.
I think it was they were eating it so often, they were eating it cold.
And one of the reasons I've found when looking into this question of why spam is so popular in Hawaiian like other Asian Pacific countries, is because not only were they kind of their hand was forced because of the things you were talking about earlier, where Japanese immigrants couldn't fish.
They also were incorporating spam in ways that were delicious, like they were putting them in recipes that they made.
Anyway, they were adding them into spam fried rice or spam and eggs.
Speaker 2Soldiers were just eating them cold.
Speaker 4Out of the ten, I think I have very limited experience with spam.
Speaker 2I don't know about the two of you, but.
Speaker 3I limited limited.
Yeah, purposely.
Speaker 1I will make a confession that Casey and Annie probably know, you probably don't know I received in my early years working when we all started working together, I received an MVP Award.
Speaker 2Do you remember this, Andy.
Speaker 1It's just three cans of spam that have been wrapped together and artistically artistically designed so that parts of the spam logos say MVP or something like that, and it's It's one of the most prestigious awards I've ever received.
It's also still in our office in case of an emergency.
Speaker 2Yes, the case of a trophy emergency.
Speaker 1The case of a trophy case, we're trapped here and we have to eat spam.
Oh yeah, I think about that.
But but the I might have just a little bit more familiarity with this stuff because in Boy Scouts we would camp a lot, and we would have to we would have to eat that stuff, and we tried to find different ways to make it taste interesting.
It's just not the same old thing.
Speaker 3But it's already spiced.
I mean, what else does in need?
Speaker 4It's right, the secret nitrate.
Speaker 2I don't know what else you're missing.
Speaker 1But yeah, it's I think it's a thing that a lot of people did, as you said, the assimilated spam.
Speaker 4Yes, and to get back to the point, they were putting it in things that I think were probably much well definitely much more flavorful.
And so they had a positive experience with spam in on Hawaii after soldiers left.
A lot of soldiers when they went home, they brought with them their distaste.
Speaker 3They were also turning spam into spam and ade, right.
I mean, they were flooded and inundated with all these the spam, and because they couldn't get protein from fishing, and didn't the US kind of like send them a lot of the spam because they had like a surplus of the stuff.
Speaker 1Right, And that wasn't just during World War Two, I continued during the Korean War as well.
Speaker 4I believe, yes, because spam was included in a lot of foreign aid packages.
And during the Korean War, people made something that I'm.
Speaker 2Not entirely sure what's in there, and other.
Speaker 4Folks weren't either, but they called it army stew, and spam was one of the ingredients that we do know was featured.
Speaker 2In army stew Army sum And.
Speaker 4To this day, Korea is spam's second largest market and it's a popular gift on Lunar New Year in that country.
Speaker 2Oh wow, mm hmmm, Oh, that's cool.
Speaker 1Do they have different varieties of spam in different countries, like different flavors and such?
I?
Speaker 4Yes, I couldn't speak to specifics, but I do know that there's a wide variety of spam flavors and that it does vary in different countries.
Speaker 2But Hawaii for sure is the biggest market.
Speaker 5Yeah.
Speaker 2Do you have some stats for us about that?
Do I?
Ever?
And I'm not sure.
Speaker 4I didn't know that spam had this association with Hawaii until I did that the research for that episode, but I think it's pretty common knowledge at least here in the United States.
But Hawaiians consume about five million pounds of spam every year, which is about two million a little over two million kilograms, and on average that's about three pounds per person or about one point three kilograms a year, or.
Speaker 3I think around six cans a year for every man, uh, every man, woman, child, any type of human is consuming about six cans of spam a year.
Speaker 1I can't we completely forgot Hey, Casey, yes, do you have do you have.
Speaker 2Any experience for familiarity with spam?
Speaker 3Just the other weird al song, the Rim parody?
Speaker 2Wait?
Speaker 3Which was that spam?
Speaker 2And the place where you live?
You know that one?
Speaker 3I don't.
Yeah, it's a deep weird Outcot's stand by Rim.
But stand.
Speaker 4Is this?
Speaker 3Is this like a classic?
Speaker 2Yeah?
Speaker 3Mid eight I means whenever stand was out?
So okay, Casey on the case turning Casey on the case like that has a sound effect and everything.
Speaker 2Any oh yeah, I mean it's got to because he's on the case.
Speaker 1We we love being able to drop the sounds so multiple Yeah, well just listen after Casey spins this in different spends the spam into gold.
Speaker 2I'm going to be shocked.
Speaker 4The Hawaii also has what looks to be one of the festivals I would just.
Speaker 2Be over the moon to attend.
Speaker 4It's called spam Jam Festival in Waikiki, and I was looking at pictures for it.
There's just mascot stressed is all the different types of spam, the spam eating contest.
I think somebody got married there once.
It looks awesome and I would love to go.
And spam is also called Hawaiian steak, which I wasn't sure if it was a joke or not when I was reading that.
In the state they call it Hawaiian steak.
Speaker 1Okay, so actual native Hawaiians call.
Speaker 2It that, from what I understand from what the Internet tells me, is okay, okay.
Speaker 1I'm just I'm trying to figure out if we can say that or if that's mocking it.
Speaker 2Yeah right, I'm not here to mock.
Speaker 3Surely they also have steak in Hawaii.
Speaker 2Surely they do, but probably they prefer spam.
Speaker 1Yeah, I mean, I'm sure steak is certainly much more expensive than they're just here on the mainland.
Speaker 2That is true.
Speaker 3Yeah, Yeah, we kind of take for granted the fact that they are sort of isolated and require all of their goods to be shipped in literally, you know, by plane or by sea.
Speaker 2Yeah, which makes things expensive.
Speaker 1So the legacy of spam established during World War Two and the Korean War takes this canned food product, this animal matter from Minnesota to its new home in You said, Hawaii is by far the largest market.
Korea is second.
That that would that should surprise a lot of people, right, because spam feels like such an American food because of the way it's spread across the planet.
Speaker 2Yeah, it surprised me.
Speaker 4I do find it really fascinating that it's so localized, it's so specific where people love it.
And then I feel like the rest of the world and the rest of the US were kind of like, that's that weird food thing.
Speaker 2What is that exactly?
Speaker 4But I would like to mention that there is an amazing I've never been, but listeners have sent like some some stuff they've gotten from this museum in Austin, Minnesota, which is, like you said, spamtam USA.
And if anyone has the opportunity, I highly recommend it.
Speaker 2It's hands on it touch the spam hams on right.
Nice.
Speaker 4You get to race to see how many cans of fake it's fake spam that you can make in a minute.
Speaker 2It's practice spam.
Speaker 4Yeah, like you're trying to shove it into the can and you're competing against like a robot.
Speaker 3So it's kind of like the world of Coca Cola in Atlanta.
But yeah, with spam, yes, I would hope that you would have the opportunity to sample different titles Spam, the Spams.
Speaker 2Of the World, Allah, World of Code.
Speaker 3That would be super cool.
We we didn't really talk about this, and I think it's fine to say it.
For the end, Spam is cooked in the can.
Yeah, the way it's made, isn't that weird?
That that struck me as super odd?
And there's a reason for that, right an.
Speaker 4Yeah, and it has to do with that whole shelf stable thing, because you wanna you want to mix the meat in a vacuum and vacuum seal it and then cook the whole can.
Speaker 2That's part of the whole meat with a pause button thing.
Speaker 4It's so nothing gets in there that you don't want, unless maybe you don't want the spam, but that's a whole different argument.
Speaker 2And when you.
Speaker 4Cook it, the the meat breaks down and you're laughed with a little a little loaf of spam and some juices.
Speaker 2We're not making it sound very appetite.
Speaker 3Semi gelatinous almost hm, not as gelatinous as it could be if it didn't have that additive, right, because it was one of those additives that keeps it from forming like a gross congealed layer of goo on the top, to make something that's already not super appetizing practically inedible.
Speaker 1And I'll tell you, guys, I will I make a mean spam fried rice if you ever want to come over.
Speaker 3I'd be cool that if you cut it in the little cubes like that, right, it's like you hide it.
It's like the way I feed my kid vegetables.
You know, I shopped the carrot stuff so small you can't even see them.
I mean, spam, for all intensive purposes probably tastes fine, But the texture of it and the look of it, and the idea of it just give me the grossouts.
Speaker 1It's the fact that it comes out can shaped.
I think for a lot of people.
You see the rills in the can.
Yeah, yeah, but not everybody.
Not everybody hated it, right, we said, Hawaiian's welcomed it with open arms.
People in parts of the Pacific Rim also really enjoyed it, and the Russians liked it.
They called it Roosevelt sausage.
Speaker 3To be fair, Russian Russian food's pretty gross.
Speaker 1I feel like in terms of cuisine, Russians already very familiar with a lot of canned meat products, you know, yeah, like anchovies, different potted meats.
So maybe it was just something that already seemed familiar to them.
Speaker 3Okay, And first of all, for any Russian listeners out there, I want to apologize for insulting the entire cuisine of Russia, but I just never really run across Russian food that was particularly appetite to me.
It seems like a lot of cabbage, a lot of like lard based things and borshed and you know, very rustic kind of stuff.
Speaker 1There's a great Russian restaurant up north of Atlanta where we are based, and I would highly.
Speaker 2Recommend checking it out.
Speaker 1And actually, you know, in defense of Russian food, this is totally nonspare, but in defense of Russian food, make friends with someone who cooks Russian food themselves.
Speaker 2And it will be amazing.
Yeah, there's always like thirty dishes of things.
Speaker 4Yeah, I would imagine that there's probably a lot of food that is historically Russian that we just have lost.
Yeah, we've forgotten that it is, or we've made it our own thing.
I'm sure thinking of any right now, but I'm sure there's good Russian fear, and.
Speaker 3We do like a chicken Kiev.
Speaker 1Yeah, we could do a Russian food update too.
Sure we're going to get some emails about this one.
Another one of, perhaps one of the most famous Russian fans of spam was Soviet Premier Nikita Krushchev.
Oh yeah, he wrote about spam in his memoirs called Krushev remembers not the most amazingly innovati threat though never Yeah, he probably had some threats in there.
He probably took some shots.
But in the memoir he specifically shouts out spam by saying, quote, there were many jokes going around in the army, some of them off color of American spam.
Speaker 2It tastes good.
Speaker 1Nonetheless, without spam, we will not feed our army.
We would have lost our most fertile land, most fertile land.
Dah, got it, got it?
Speaker 2Who was that Russian guy?
Speaker 3It was?
It was Krushchev was.
Speaker 2Terrible.
Speaker 1Oh my gosh, we've got I've got a practice on the accents, folks.
But he raises an interesting point.
You know that similar to what was happening with war survivors in the countries on the Pacific Rim.
There were people who would have starved without access to this easily transportable, infinitely durable food.
Speaker 4Yeah, kind of along the same lines.
Margaret Thatcher called it a wartime delicacy.
She called spam a wartime delicacy.
And it's interesting, I think, because there is an odd sense of nostalgia for spam that a lot of people have, and I feel that it needed time to get away from the war the direct aftermath, but then after that people had this association with spam.
Speaker 2It was there for me when I needed it.
Speaker 4Yeah.
Speaker 3It's also one of those things where it's like it hasn't changed much.
The branding is the same.
It's you know, people have fond memories of that and they like the idea of, you know, everything in this in this fast paced, mixed up world of ours, everything's always changing a mile a minute, but we can rely on spam.
Speaker 2Yes, the spam never changes.
Speaker 3Like our true North.
Speaker 2There we go, true North of canned animal matter.
Speaker 1I do have a question, this is something that I was wondering if we could explore together, how did spam also become a term for deluges of bizarre emails.
Speaker 2Well then it has to do with Monty Python.
Speaker 3Oh yeah, yeah, that's sketch.
Speaker 2Right, yes, huh can you describe the sketch?
Speaker 3We should just play a clip of it.
Speaker 5Oh you go, then all this egg and bikon eggs, sausage and bithon egg and spam, egg, bacon and spam, bcon, sausage and SPA, spam, bacon, sausage and SPA, spam, eggs, spat, spat, bacon and spat, spams, fam, spat, egg and spat, spamspam, span spam, spam, spat by clean spam, spam, spat spam prevents the mode I saw Scottish.
Speaker 4Spam.
Speaker 2I didn't want anything without.
Speaker 5Spam in it.
Well, span, eg, sausage and spam.
It's not much spam in it.
Speaker 4The end credits for that episode, by the way, include Spam with every company member, Spam, Terry Jones, Terry spam, sausage, spam, egg spam.
Speaker 3And the idea of just like inundating you with something.
Speaker 4Yeah, like annoying you always kind of just blaring in the back of your mind.
It has no appreciable content.
It's omnipresent.
But as you can imagine, Hormel doesn't exactly love that association.
Speaker 2No way.
Speaker 4Yeah, I think they've even tried to.
I think there was some very quickly defeated legal way they tried to.
Speaker 3Well, it's not like anybody branded spam.
It's just in the eitgeys.
People just toss it around, you know, yeah, owns it.
Speaker 2I'm not sure everyone exactly.
I'm not sure what they thought.
Speaker 4They could just send out a message to everyone, a spam message and say.
Speaker 2Please use a different term for this, but this thing is that we're sending.
Speaker 1And usually when people or institutions or companies attempt to do something like that, they just make the problem much much worse, such as when a celebrity politely asked the Internet to take down a photo of them.
Speaker 2Yeah, what I mean.
Speaker 1So they've probably done the math and they thought, if we ask people to not do this, it's not going to work.
Speaker 2I know there's some.
Speaker 1There's a bit of a renaissance sometimes for spam, every so often in more high end restaurants, right.
Speaker 4Yes, I saw this a lot when I was in San Francisco a couple year or so ago.
Speaker 2And there's one restaurant.
Speaker 4I think it's called Le Yacht Club something like that, and they have a lot.
Speaker 2Of spam options on their menu.
And it's a very nice restaurant.
Speaker 3Is it Hawaiian like tamed?
It is just like, what's this loco mocho?
I keep hearing about?
Mocho?
Speaker 2Loco loco is good.
Speaker 3It's like spam with gravy or something.
Yes, rice maybe mm hmm.
Speaker 4It's rice, spam, gravy and a fried egg.
You can also get it with ground b for other.
Speaker 3Meats or a hamburger patty either.
Speaker 2Yes, so that's what I had.
I didn't have spam.
Speaker 3Loco mocho oh okay, okay.
Speaker 2I did have the other one.
Speaker 3And it was very interesting that there's like high end Hawaiian restaurants that still use this, uh, pretty cheap, not very nutritional canned meat.
Speaking of nutrition, you want to point out real quick that one of these cans of spams twelve ounces and it apparently contains about six servings, which contain so the six servings that they can, which yeah, come on really very and it can contains twenty five percent of the daily recommended fat intake for the US and thirty three percent of the sodium.
Speaker 2So it's not a health food.
No.
Speaker 1But there's another stet Americans 't approximately three point eight cans per second.
I have a problem with that step because I think Hawaii is throwing off the average.
Speaker 2I yes, I would agree.
Speaker 4I can't really recall spam ever coming up in my childhood as an option.
Speaker 2I don't.
Speaker 3Well, you clearly didn't have elderly parents like I did.
Speaker 2Oh really, they you.
Speaker 3Know, remembered it fondly from the wartime where they spam.
Speaker 2Fit.
Speaker 3No, my parents weren't alive in World War Two, but their parents were, and so it was something you know, a lot of people went through the depression, they like they learned how to hoard properly, and they learned how to like be frugal and like use canned meats and things.
I remember growing up in my Grandpapa would make brains and eggs, which is lightly brain.
It's literally I didn't even realize this until many years later.
It's like cow brains and eggs.
But it was like a cheap part that you could just you know, added a little texture and a little flavor to your eggs.
Same with spam or something called liver pudding.
Or scrapple is what it's known as in the Wearing, not the Midwest, like up in.
Speaker 2The ChIL Yeah, Pennsylvania are yeah exactly.
Speaker 3I liked all of those things and didn't think anything of it.
But they're both kind of these congealed meat cubes that you then slice up and fry like spam.
So there's there's there's other analogs.
Speaker 2To spam, for sure.
Speaker 1Absolutely these are foods that come about out of necessity, you know, And I think necessity and nostalgia are inextricably intertwined here.
So I guess I guess the next question will be what is the what is the future of spam?
Are they slowing up?
Are they speeding up?
Speaker 4I think they they They're in a good place.
I definitely don't think that they need to be worried.
I Hawaiians love it.
They're gonna keep the market going.
Like we said, these fancier restaurants, and this is a trend.
We see a lot where the combination of high end and low end.
I've seen around Atlanta government cheese at really nice restaurants.
It's pretty frequently.
So I don't think they have to be worried.
What they should be worried about.
Speaker 2Is theft?
That's right?
Okay, can you tell us a little bit about this?
Speaker 1Yes, we love well.
I can't speak for you, but I love it.
I love a good high story.
Do you love a good high story?
Speaker 3No, you are wrong.
You shouldn't have spoken about that.
Yeah, of course I love a good high story, especially when it involves an absurd potted meat.
Speaker 4A spam high story.
Is it's up there, that's a good one.
Lately there have been a spate of spam thefts in Hawaii.
Speaker 2Nice.
Speaker 4In one account, three women filled a cart with eighteen cans of spam at a drug store and made a dash for the exit.
But this customer, he just planted himself in front of the doors and said, what are you doing with that spam?
You didn't say that but along those lines, And they made a run for it, and they did not succeed in their heist, but enough people have that now some stores have started storing their cans of spam locked in those plastic cases that are typically a use for expensive items electronics razors.
Yeah, now spam is back there.
You have to go ask for key for your spam.
Speaker 3The reason for this is super interesting.
It has to do with a change in the law in Hawaii, where I think in the past theft up to three hundred dollars was considered a felony, and then they raised it to seven hundred, so you could steal up to seven hundred dollars worth of spam and it would be just a misdemeanor if they caught you.
But also it's like, how are you going to you know, track down the purp if you don't catch them doing it.
And the fact that this famous spam shelf stability means that you don't have to fence it right away, right you can sit on your stash for a while.
And this great article from grub Street that you turned us onto any Hawaiian grocery stores reportedly overrun with spam bandits spammed its spammed it that it's it's like an epidemic, and it's a lot.
Largely the article conjectures folks are stealing the stuff so that they can flip it and buy drugs.
But it's so flippable because the market for spam and Hawaii is like through the roof.
Speaker 2Yeah.
Speaker 4Tina Yamaki, the President of Retail Merchants of Hawaii, calls it organized retail crime.
And she's spoken a lot about the spam black market and how you can buy spam out of somebody's car, out of their trunk.
Speaker 1Wow, it's you know, usually if I see somebody with a ton of canned meat in their trunk standing by the side of the road, my first instinct isn't to ask them how much what the going price is?
Speaker 2You clearly not a spam fan, Ben, I'm not.
Speaker 1You know what I'm I can say safely, I'm a fan, but I don't think I'm built to be a spam tycoon.
I hope they're out there somewhere in Hawaii.
I hope there's a black market spam tycoon.
And I hope that you are listening to this show.
Speaker 2We want to.
Speaker 3Make God have mercy on your soul.
Speaker 1May God have mercy on your spam?
Speaker 2Right?
Speaker 1I think we all want to hear spam recipes from listeners if you're a fan of spam.
Speaker 3Well, speaking of spam recipes, we remember we talked about like how the Hormel company is doing and moving forward or whatever.
Well, they've really embraced a lot of this kitch surrounding spam, and like the masubi's and all that, and they have like recipes on their site for this is fantastic national geographic article by April Fulton shows some images of some of the stuff that I'm talking about.
One of them is a Hello Kitty Spam musubi that they show you how to make.
They also have a tour, a national tour called the Tiny House of Sizzle Tour, where they are shopping around the whole US of a a spicy Spam breakfast burrito recipe made by their chef Jordan and Dino, And it's like a traveling Spam food truck, sort of the way you see the Oscar Mayer Wiener uh Mobile or whatever.
So you know, Spam's not slowing down.
They're they're they're rising to the occasion.
They're adapting to the times.
Yeah, they're adapting times.
Speaker 2They always have.
Speaker 1I want to show you guys one of my favorite pictures so any on this show, we love vintage averagells too, so Spam Dandy is one of my one of my favorites.
That they have these collections of all their ads that have the exact nostalgia tone For anybody who enjoyed our previous episode on.
Speaker 2What was it nola, was it meat jell?
Oh?
Yeah?
Speaker 3Aspects yeah, and also just like various savory gelatine dishes that were very popular as like centerpieces and made you seem like you really had your homemaking skills in order.
And spam.
I'm sure it's all part of this, like the food of the Future movement, the idea, oh well, just eat out of tens and that's super progressive and like shows that we have money or something.
Even though it was cheap and gelatin was cheap, it was a very odd dichotomy and that really interesting to look back on.
Speaker 2Insane gelatine.
Speaker 1Just when you see pictures of those things at the center of a dining table, it strikes me as lovecrafting.
And I'm gonna be honest, it's something from like the Darkness beyond the stars.
Speaker 4Oh I love looking at a good aspect or meat jelly.
They're hilarious and they are that interesting intersection of At the time, if you didn't have a lot of money, you wanted to put a lot of work and artistry into a thing to show that you were successful and that you could afford to do this.
Speaker 2But it was a cheap food thing.
Speaker 4Everyone was participating in kind of this masquerade, this facade, and spam is a similar food in that it does have that futuristic it'll last forever vibe, but it's very cheap and during the recent recession in two thousand and eight because of this, spam saw an increase of sales of ten percent, because yeah, it is a food that people can't afford.
And there aren't strict numbers, but according to the Hormel website, they estimate twelve point eight cans of spam are consumed every second across the planet.
Speaker 3Mostly and that's not even to speak of the ones that are just hoarded in a bombshell's right.
Speaker 1Or in the trunk of a Cadillac driving owhere near you.
Speaker 2I love it well.
Speaker 3I don't know about you, guys, but I'm filled with gratitude at the end of this episode for you, Annie.
My heart is just bursting out of my chest with gratitude, clearly more gratitude than either Ben or Casey are capable of mustering.
Speaker 2So I win.
Annie.
Speaker 1I wasn't really listening when Noel was talking about I do want to say thank you so much for coming on in the episode.
I'm kidding Noel I think we're both really happy that you took the time here and taught us so much about spam.
I'm wondering if I'm going to cook some this weekend.
We've talked so much about it.
I feel like we've almost, in a way consumed it ourselves just by exploring this concept.
Speaker 3I think we should do a potted meat like, uh, potluck, let's do it, let's get it.
Would be a potluck, a potted potted potted meat.
Speaker 4Look, this is the office to host such an event.
There would be very creative concoctions.
Speaker 1Behind the curtain, folks.
We recently hung out after work and had a game night where we learned well I think you already knew all the games, Annie, but we both learned some really cool stuff.
Speaker 3So yeah, shout out to Dixit right, Dixon, fun to say, fun to play.
That should be their tagline, that to.
Speaker 2Have it, you're gonna give it to them for free.
Speaker 3Well, I don't know.
They can send me some some swag, some mugs or something.
You guys can have it was so fun.
It was It was really really a joy, and it was a successful Game nine and I look forward to doing it again.
But I also look forward to having you Annie on the show again.
Speaker 2Yes please, yes, please, And this was so this was so much fun.
Yes, we're so glad.
I enjoyed it.
Speaker 1I'm a huge fan of food history, as you know from some of our works outside of this show.
But in the meantime, before you make another return appearance, where can our listeners hear more of your work with how Stuff works?
Speaker 4You can find me over at Savor podcast at your internet humans.
I'm sure you can find it, but it is I will say it's Savor without the you.
So for the non American listeners among you, and I also am a co host of a show called Stuff Mom've Never Told You, which you can google Google right.
Speaker 2Away and you'll find it.
Speaker 1Fantastic shows.
Do check them out, the shows that I personally listened to in my free time.
So okay, yeah, I don't want to fanboy out too much, but maybe I'll ask you an autograph.
Speaker 2After the show.
Speaker 3I definitely listened to the Spam episode today and crypped most of my notes with this episode from that episode.
So this is where that this is like a yeah.
Speaker 1The stake that consumes its tale and we have more tales to tell we had earlier said that we would be exploring some more spooky stories as we lead up to Halloween, So tune in next time when we delve into this strange story of well mummies.
Speaker 3Yeah, Mexican mummies to be precise.
And in the meantime, I like to thank Casey, our super producer, Alex Williams, who composed our theme, research associates Christopher Hasiotis and Eve's Jeffcoat and Ben as usual, I'd like to throw a little thanks your way, my friend.
Speaker 1I would like to treat that thanks like a boomerang, add some extra thanks to it, and make sure it gets right back to you.
Speaker 3Why do you aways have to want up be on the thanks?
Speaker 4Why not?
Speaker 2Man, I just like hanging out.
Speaker 3We'll see you next time, folks.
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