In this episode of The Tramping Life, I explore one of New Zealand’s most iconic coastal walks: the Queen Charlotte Track in the Marlborough Sounds.

This 71 km route is typically walked from Ship Cove in the north to Anakiwa in the south, following ridgelines and shorelines with terrain that undulates between sea level and hills up to around 450 m. The track passes through native forest, across headlands, and around numerous coves and bays, offering dramatic views of sunken valleys, rocky coastlines, and the surrounding Marlborough Sounds. Part of Te Araroa, the track crosses private and council land, requiring a Queen Charlotte Track Land Cooperative pass for sections near Kenepuru Saddle, and features a mix of DOC campsites and private lodges, with the option to transfer bags between overnight stops.

I share my experience walking the track in November 2020, from the historic Ship Cove—where Captain Cook anchored—to the towering ridgelines and scenic viewpoints along the peninsula. Along the way, I met fellow walkers and bikers, admired thousand-year-old rimu trees, enjoyed the quiet of DOC campsites, and even spotted playful weka. Highlights include the mix of coastal and inland scenery, historic interpretation at Ship Cove, and the opportunity to relax at campsites with birdsong as your alarm clock.